What is ash dieback disease?
Ash dieback is a serious fungal disease, caused by the fungus Hymenoscyphus fraxineus, that can affect ash trees of all ages. The Woodland Trust estimate that it could kill around 80% of ash trees across the UK. As ash (Fraxinus excelsior) is one of the most common trees in the UK this disease could change our landscape forever!
A young tree infected with ash dieback could be dead within one season. Mature trees will survive several seasons of infection before succumbing to the disease. Some older, more mature, ash trees can survive the infection.
This disease is no risk to animals and humans.
How widespread is ash dieback disease in the South?
Unfortunately, the whole of the UK is now affected by ash dieback. It originated in Asia and has spread rapidly across continental Europe throughout the last 30 years. It was first recorded in the UK in 2012 but could’ve been around some years before it was noticed.
Ash dieback was first confirmed in Hampshire in 2014 and has been spreading ever since. Cases have been confirmed by Southampton City Council across a small number of council sites in the city.
Hampshire Highways carry out regular surveys of ash trees along the highway network. In 2018 they reported that less than 5% of the trees adjacent to the highway displayed severe signs of dieback, but this number is increasing. They point out that most trees adjacent to public highways, within falling distance, are the responsibility of private landowners and that all landowners have a legal duty to maintain their trees.
What are the symptoms of ash dieback?
Ash dieback symptoms include:
- Dark patches and blotches on the leaves that eventually turn black and wilt.
- Dark brown, diamond-shaped lesions where branches meet the trunk
- Unseasonal leaf loss and crown dieback
- Extensive dieback of shoots, twigs and branches
- Previously dormant buds start growing new shoots
If you would like peace of mind for your trees we can offer a professional opinion – get in touch with us if you suspect your tree has ash dieback
What should I do if I spot ash dieback in my tree?
Remember that you have a legal duty to maintain the trees on your land and liabilities can arise if trees and branches fall. You should ensure that any trees are inspected appropriately, and that action is taken so that these trees do not constitute a hazard. Especially if the trees are within falling distance of a public highway.
You should monitor the condition of the tree. Pruning and felling maybe required if the tree becomes a threat to public safety or your property.
Removal all ash leaf litter in the autumn and winter by burning, burying or composting in situ. You can put them in the normal rubbish bin but do not put in green waste bins for composting as this could go on to infect other ash trees.
You should also report it to Forest Research’s TreeAlert so that they can monitor changes to its distribution nationwide and advise local woodland managers
Do I need to have an infected tree felled?
Ash tree owners should take a balanced and proportionate approach. Not all infected trees need to be removed. Sometimes the disease can be managed with careful pruning. Some older, more mature, ash trees can survive the infection. But typically infection is fatal with young trees dying within one season and mature trees surviving several seasons.
As the tree weakens from the disease it can become more susceptible to other aggressive diseases. Dying trees can also be a safety hazard to people and property, in which case we would recommend felling or removal.
Ash dieback can also cause lesions at the base of ash trees which can facilitate colonisation of secondary pathogens like honey fungus. This can lead to structurally unstable trees.
Healthy ash trees should not be pruned or felled unless that are other managements reasons to do so. A precautionary measure is not required.
What are Climbers Way doing about Ash Dieback?
We are providing services to help identify trees infected by ash dieback in Southampton, Winchester, Oxford, Guildford and the surrounding areas.
Our qualified tree surveyors will inspect your tree and confirm whether its infected. If an infection is found we will make recommendations as to the best course of action, and can carry out any work if required, such as pruning, felling or dismantling.
When we work with an infected ash tree, we do our best to stop the local spread of ash dieback. It is important to minimise the spread of the fungal spores. We do this by:
- Burning, burying or deep composting all infected ash waste material.
- Cleaning our boots and equipment before and after working around ash trees, diseased or otherwise.
If you’re worried that your ash tree might have ash dieback or has already succumbed to ash dieback and could now be unsafe please get in touch with us
Nothing sends fear through a gardener like honey fungus. It’s a parasitic fungus, orangey brown in colour, that attacks and kills the roots of many trees. It’s one of the most destructive fungal diseases and no tree is completely immune!
But just because your tree is infected it doesn’t mean it always needs to be removed.
First of all there are several different types of honey fungus and they all differ by how deadly they are. And secondly the vitality and vigour of the infected tree needs to be taken into account; Whilst an infected tree may well eventually succumb to the fungus it could take decades to happen.
And that’s why we didn’t have to remove this tree we were recently called out to.
It’s mature tree that has a honey fungus infection in the heartwood but is otherwise healthy. It’ll still be around for some time but its stability had been weakened by the infection.
And with children often playing below it the last thing we want is branches to fall off or the whole thing falling over.
In order to improve the stability of the tree we gave the tree a crown reduction. We reduced the overall spread of the canopy and thinned it out. This means there is a reduced weight load on each union which will help to prevent branches breaking off. And a smaller lighter canopy overall will reduce the weight load on the trunk and reduce wind sail.
As an aside, did you know that the largest living thing on our planet is a single honey fungus? It lives in the Malheur National Forest in the Blue Mountains of Oregon, spans 3.4 square miles and is estimated to be 2,400 years old!
If you spot honey fungus on your trees make sure to consult an expert before making any decisions as every case is different. Get in touch with us and we will take a look at your tree and give it a full health assessment.
When it comes to pruning, there are many techniques and tips that can help keep your trees healthy and happy.
We are going to share with you some tips on pruning effectively and some of the tools you will need.
What are the benefits of pruning?
Pruning helps maintain the size of trees. Trees that grow too large for their location can cause over-shading, possible damage to the surrounding objects and can end up with limbs getting overloaded and snapping.
When you prune, you are able to remove any hazardous limbs, deadwood or any crossing branches that could cause trouble.
Pruning will also allow light and air trough the tree which assists in keeping your tree healthy and strong.
Differences in pruning juvenile and mature trees
When pruning a young tree you are essentially creating a blueprint for how you want them to form. Whereas when you prune a mature tree you are generally doing remedial works to their canopy or to reduce their size. Mature trees will already have their shape.
What tools do we use?
On many of our sites, the basic equipment we would use to maintain a tree would be a hand saw (We like Silky) and throw linesto which allows us to reach any difficult areas. For larger diameter cuts we would use a top handle chainsaw, and for those hard to reach places we would use a pole saw.
What tools do you need?
If you are looking to prune your own trees, to allow more light into your garden for the summer, it is essential for your own health and safety that you only ever climb into a tree if you have the necessary qualifications.
If you want to gain access to the tree without climbing then use an A-Frame ladder for stability and a long reach pole saw. These two tools will help you reduce the tips of the tree.
The Do’s and Don’ts
DO reduce the surface area of any cut: Any cut you make to the tree you want there to me as little surface area as possible so that it’s as difficult as possible for any pathogens or diseases to get into the trees system.
DO keep the canopy balanced: If you reduce one side of the tree it is important to make sure the other side is reduced equally in order to keep an even load on the trunk.
DON’T damage the main stem. Avoid cutting or putting any objects around the stem that will hinder its growth.
So get that A-Frame ladder out and sharpen up that long reach pole saw. But if you decide you’d rather leave the work to someone else, then get a free quote from us.
When you speak to a tree surgeon about pruning your trees you may come across words such as:
- Crown Reduction
- Crown Raising
- Crown Thinning
- Pollarding
We’re going to explain this terminology to you now. It may also help you decide on the type of work you need if you are yet to speak to a tree surgeon.
A crown reduction is a method where you reduce the height and/or the foliage of the tree. This can treatment allows more light to pass through the branches, which can bring light into your garden as well as helping to keep the tree healthy and strong. This can be done to the full tree or to specific branches that may help reduce any stress on the tree.
Crown raising (also known as crown lifting) is the removal of the lowest branches. This allows light to pass through the bottom of the crown and can promote healthy growth. It’s something that can be performed at any stage of a trees life but for the best results, it is best to get a crown lift done when the tree is in its youth. This will allow the tree to grow in a healthy state and may prevent the tree from needing future crown lifting.
Crown Thinning
Crown thinning is a technique by which you remove all smaller branches, typically on the outer parts of the crown. This usually doesn’t change the shape or size of the tree, but it allows more sunlight and air to move through the tree. This means the tree can stay healthy and the risk of disease is reduced.
Pollarding is a method of pruning where the crown of the tree is reduced to encourage new growth. This is best done at the end of the winter season or at the beginning of Spring.
Where can I find other useful terms associated with tree work?
The Arboricultural Association website has an extensive list of other tree surgeon terminology.
If you’d like to find out more about our pruning services then you’ll like clicking here.
As the season of Summer approaches, it is wise to think about ways to bring light into your garden.
Increasing the amount of light into your garden can help keep your plants, trees and hedges healthy for the coming months. Sunlight and air can help with disease prevention and growth.
Trees are a big culprit of blocking out light but you don’t need have them removed to let light in to your garden. The best way to bring some light through your trees is by thinning the crown.
Crown thinning is a general pruning, usually around the edges of the tree’s canopy, to reduce its shade density and the weight of foliage. A general thinning will improve air circulation, too, which helps to prevent fungal and pest problems.
Crown lifting is another way to let more light through a tree. A lift concentrates on the underside of the tree’s canopy, removing lower branches to allow for better light or access underneath, for example, to mow a lawn.
These types of works will allow the tree to keep strong and will allow appropriate light into your garden.
It’s also worth checking with your local authority to make sure that there are no Tree Preservation Orders (TPO) in force, particularly if you are planning drastic action.
If you would to read about some other light enhancing techniques then you might like our blog post 7 Ways to Get More Light Into Your Garden.
